Seeking the Peak - Mt. Washington Ascent
- Mike
- Jul 19, 2022
- 12 min read
My first year participating in Seek the Peak (Morgan's second) felt so gratifying. The opportunity to give back to the organization that we have relied on for years to keep us safe in the White Mountains, a place infamous for its unpredictable and severe weather, was truly a wonderful experience. Seek the Peak is an annual fundraising event going back 22 years supporting the work of the Mount Washington Observatory, a non-profit institution dedicated to climate research. MWOBS was born out of a harrowing expedition in the winter of 1870 on Mt. Washington led by a group of pioneering scientists with hopes of improving methods of weather forecasting. The U.S. Signal Service, now the National Weather Service, set up the first official weather station on Mt. Washington's summit and continued the research of the previous scientific party until 1892. MWOBS was founded forty years later in 1932 funded by a group of individuals who's names you might recognize if you're familiar with the Whites: Joe Dodge, Bob Monahan, Alex McKenzie, and Sal Pagliuca. Only 2 years later the observatory recorded the world's highest wind speed clocking in at 231mph, dubbing Mt. Washington the Home of the World's Worst Weather. Today MWOBS continues advanced studies of the Earth's climate and weather conditions. The observatory also puts out daily local weather reports that thousands of outdoor enthusiasts rely on.
In support of MWOBS our Seek the Peak team, Sea Level to Summit, managed to raise a total of $2,286.75 putting us at #11 out of 37 teams for the most money raised. A an astonishing $150,752.86 was raised by all teams and individuals who participated! This event is not only about raising money however. It's also about getting out into the Whites and engaging in an activity that gives some perspective and allows you to appreciate WHY you are raising this money.
We decided the best way to appreciate the White Mountains was to seek the tallest peak North of the Carolinas and East of the Mississippi River, that being Mt. Washington herself. Friday after work we set out North for the Whites with our packs ready for an overnight at Hermit Lake. We hit the trailhead at Pinkham Notch around 8:30pm and with a sliver of remaining daylight we disappeared into the dense, lush forest that makes up the valley below the Presidential Range. We passed a few hikers on their way down, trying to escape being swallowed by the dark shadows of the trail. After a short time only the two of us and a lone man from Louisiana, seemingly desperate to succeed in his only chance to climb Washington, remained on the trail. We hiked along with our odd companion, answering his questions about what to expect beyond Hermit Lake, until he eventually scurried ahead of us. It took less than a few minutes for us to lose sight of him. At this point the sun had completely set and the path ahead had become obscured by the night. We marched on attempting to continue with just our night vision, willing a supernatural ability to see in the dark. To our disappointment we were unable to channel a hidden super power, and we reluctantly donned our headlamps. Piercing the quiet night with the harsh light of a headlamp seems a shame. Making our way up the trail we passed the familiar landmarks - Huntington Ravine Trail, the two wooden bridges, Raymond Path, and eventually Lion Head Trail marking the last push to the Hermit Lake Shelters.
After a peaceful 2.4 miles in the dark we reached our camp for the night around 10:00pm. Emerging out of the woods into a clearing we were able to see the night sky and what a treat it was. The Milky Way was in its full glory and the constellations were as bright as ever. We almost tripped over the caretaker, Russ, who was stargazing in his sleeping bag on the porch of the caretaker's cabin. Russ greeted us and pointed us in the direction of an unoccupied shelter where, after snapping some long exposures in the clearing by the cabin, we settled in for the night. Mountain House freeze dried lasagna was on the menu for our entrée and Haribo Star Mix for dessert. Our bellies were filled and we snuggled into our sleeping bags, hopeful for a restful night.
Sleep was interrupted by our alarms at 5:00am. The sun had already begun poking faint rays through the trees. It was time to shovel down some oatmeal and prep our gear for a summit attempt. One pack was completely emptied and then filled with only the necessary items for our ascent. The other pack was left behind securely fortified inside a bear box containing our remaining gear. I typically hump the pack up the trail and Morgan takes it down. Once our gear was sorted we passed the caretaker's cabin and warmed our leg muscles by heading to the well to fill our water bladder for the day. We began our ascent of the little headwall just beyond Hermit Lake at 6:00am. The little headwall, despite it's name, is actually pretty brutal. The steep, incessant rock stairs are a rude awakening to what will only become more treacherous inclines further down the trail on the main headwall and finally the summit cone. It was already becoming warm and layers were shed almost immediately, a result of the increasingly strong rays of the sun at elevation. The little headwall does have its perks. The first views of the valley below are visible from here and the landscape only becomes more and more impressive as you get closer to the main headwall. There is a small river to the left of the trail, which rages in the spring with snowmelt. There are many birds in this area and different species of alpine vegetation battling with the valley forest gradually establish dominance with elevation gain.
Once over the little headwall we got a decent break from the “up” and carried on across a relatively flat span of trail and quickly made our way through the upper portion of the ravine. We hit the base of the next headwall, a strikingly steep section of glacial cirque rising 1,000 feet above the ravine. We excitedly hurried over to a particular section of trail where a large ice bridge can typically be seen spanning a stream at the base of a small waterfall. We’ve seen this ice bridge on several occasions during this time of year but sadly it was not present and we pondered the environmental conditions that might affect the longevity of the ice bridge into the summer season. This location also marks the beginning of the climb up the steep headwall. The trail going up takes a sharp right turn near the ice bridge and resembles the rock steps up the little headwall except these are larger rocks. After a strenuous climb up the steep bouldery slope the trail then takes a sharp left. Exactly here is where the sheer angle of the cliff face hits you. On top of that, this is also the start of the small streams and mini waterfalls that create washouts and slippery sections of the narrow trail with precipitous drop offs on the left. Certainly intimidating for first timers and experienced hikers alike. It takes some effort to keep the bottoms of your boots dry to maintain maximum traction.
Despite being a harsh, rocky cliffside this area is distinctly overgrown due to the hundreds of trickling streams and waterfalls strewn throughout the cirque. Vegetation clings precariously to the rock and the trail becomes a bit earthy, something which is unusual for the Whites as bare granite rocks and boulders are the norm underfoot. The smell of damp mosses and flowers enter the nostrils. A number of these flowers are found only around the alpine gardens of the Whites and no where else in the world. Preservation of these plants is paramount and hikers are instructed to strictly remain on marked trails to avoid trampling the extremely rare and fragile flora. It is a wonder how such vulnerable and fragile plants are able to thrive in such a hostile and unforgiving habitat.
Continuing up the trail we encountered a few scrambles requiring the use of all four limbs. It takes everything not to be distracted by the breathtaking scenery and remain focused on the trail below your feet. The path alternated between narrow, flat sections of washouts, stream crossings, and steep scrambles as it navigated South West up the crag. We stopped to fill our bladder from a little trickle of water percolating through a mossy overhang. The day was getting hot and we had not yet emerged from the protection of the prevailing winds that the ravine offers and we were sucking down a lot of water. Finally the trail bent North West and there it took us up and over the ridge of the headwall. From here we were rewarded with a commanding view of the bowl, Hermit Lake a tiny dot in the forest below.
After succeeding in making it up the cirque the worst is still yet to come. Mt. Washington's summit cone is a stunning hellscape of large granite boulders. The steepness does not subside, only now there is no cliff face on one side. The boulderfield is totally unforgiving and, completely exposed to the prevailing winds, it offers no shelter from the elements. If you have avoided slipping off the headwall you are now susceptible to perishing from exposure. In the Pinkham Notch visitor center there is a list of around 150 names of the climbers who have lost their lives on Mt. Washington. 150 reminders that the alpine zone is not to be underestimated. In June of this year an unfortunate soul from Massachusetts lost their life to hypothermia on the Gulfside Trail, the opposite side of the summit cone. All the more reason to support MWOBS for their climate research and advanced weather forecasts. But as helpful as those forecasts are, the weather on Mt. Wash is known for it's unpredictability. The golden rule for climbing is to summit by noon, as to avoid the unpredictable afternoon weather patterns. That being said, as nightmarish of an environment it can be if things go wrong, it can also be just as pleasant and lovely if the conditions are right. I believe this is what lulls climbers into a false sense of security, not to mention the accessibility to Mt. Wash makes it easy for just about anyone to tempt their fate at an ill planned or underprepared climb. Mt. Wash is shrouded by clouds and bad weather throughout 60% of the year. Luckily on this day the weather was exceptional and confidence in the forecast was high. We were quite fortunate to have such perfect conditions for an ascent, the weather truly does not get any better than it was and we were in no real danger, nor did we suffer from any adverse conditions and for that we were grateful.
At the top of the headwall we grabbed a few Clif Bars from the pack and replenished some lost calories before sending it up the summit cone. After our quick break we set off up the boulder field, hopping over cracks and crevices and scrambling up the steeper rocks. This place is is where ankles go to die, and sturdy high-cut, full grain leather boots are recommended if you are not keen on breaking said ankles. Now above the ravine we welcomed the cool North Westerly prevailing wind which helped dry our sweaty gear. Temps were in the low to mid 50's but the sun and our exertion kept us in t-shirts. We rock hopped and scrambled for what seemed like ages and finally the tops of the weather station instruments appeared tantalizingly close. We summited at 8:00am. With the absolute worst part of the climb behind us (a few sets of brutal wooden stairs at the very end) we spotted the sign marking the summit perched at 6,288 feet above sea level. But something was wrong. Where were the hordes of people? The flip flop cladded, pumpkin spiced latte toting, completely unprepared for the cold and windy summit, freshly laundered tourists? We looked around and saw no cars in the parking lot sporting their "This car climbed Mt. Washington" stickers. We saw no locomotives, motorcycles, or tour buses. We had actually made it just before the auto road and cog railway opened. There was no line for photos with the summit sign! Only a single other fellow hiker named Anthony was present. This was Anthony's first summit of Washington and understandably so he requested a full photo shoot which Morgan was more than happy to oblige.
All joking aside, it's great that Mt. Wash is accessible to so many people who may not have otherwise experienced such an awe-inspiring landscape if it weren't for the auto road or cog railway. Besides, their purchases at the visitor center help keep the place running. Anthony's photo shoot was verging on what Morgan would normally charge for (seriously we have so many photos of Anthony) so we broke away and found some Adirondack chairs sheltered from the wind and took in the view. Not before long the visitor center opened and we went inside to warm up and grab some snacks. At 9:00 we got first in line for a free private tour of the weather station, which was only available for Seek the Peak participants. We had such a good time interacting with the volunteer scientists and learning from them about what they do. They were such a passionate bunch and were so eager to share the ins and outs of their weather station. They profusely expressed their gratitude for everyone involved in Seek the Peak including donors and fundraisers. We toured the workstations where the forecasts are developed and weather models are researched. We checked out the systems and instruments that collect and display a wide range of weather data. We were brought up into the tower where we climbed a spiral staircase and a few ladders and emerged at the business end of all of the instruments. On top of the tower were a range of anemometers and other sensors that send data down to the displays below.
From the top of the tower we were surrounded with a 360 degree view of the Presidential Range and beyond. Visibility was about 100 miles. The beauty and vastness of the landscape is almost beyond comprehension. Aside from aircraft, we were literally higher than everyone in the entire Northeast. The dark, rich earthy green colors of the mountains nearby gave way to the light hazy blues on far the horizon. We took in the scene for a while then made our way back down the ladders and spiral staircase and decided it was time to make our descent. We didn't want to miss the expo after all! Our descent began around 10:00. By this time the auto road and cog railway were in full swing and the throngs of people that were transported to the summit were beginning to crowd the area. Time to go. For a moment though, before all the hustle and bustle, before the tour of the weather station, we felt as though we were the only two people on Earth. Well, us and Anthony.
Making our way down the summit cone we were glad we summited early. The trail was all of a sudden littered with hikers making their way up. Now we had to navigate against the flow of traffic. The summit cone wasn't too bad as there is plenty of space to avoid oncoming traffic but the headwall became a bit of a choke point since the trail is extremely narrow. This greatly slowed our descent, having to give right of way to the ascending climbers. This was actually our first time descending via Tuckerman's Ravine Trail. We have only ever descended via Lion Head Trail. Lion Head Trail takes you across the Eastern alpine garden over a stunning ridgeline, then down a very steep and grueling rock face, then into a similarly steep descent through a wooded slope and finally connecting to the Tuckerman Ravine Trail about 0.1 miles from Hermit Lake. The status quo is that Lion Head is an easier, safer route to descend than Tuckerman, which may hold true in bad weather, but we found that it was significantly more enjoyable and a bit quicker to go down Tucks. We decided that we were so over Lion Head and would choose Tucks any day. So, down Tucks we went, over the headwall, through the ravine, down little headwall and then to Hermit Lake. We found our gear still in the bear box and reorganized everything into our respective packs and continued the remaining 2.4 miles to Pinkham Notch. We reveled in our successful adventure and checked our final stats. 8.68 total miles hiked in 6 hours and 47 minutes. We were pretty happy with that.
We dumped our packs in the Rav and rinsed off in the showers at the visitor center. I wish I could say the shower felt amazing but the temperature knob was broken and I couldn't adjust the scalding hot water. It wasn't a pleasant experience, being already hot and sweaty from a long day of hiking in the sun. I also didn't have a towel so a t-shirt was used to dry off. In the end it did feel great to be a bit cleaner than I was half an hour ago. Now semi-clean we hopped in the car and drove down the road to the main event. Tired, thirsty, and hungry, the presence of food trucks and a Tuckerman Brewing tent brought us great joy. We checked in and scored some great swag then made a beeline for the beer. We secured some brews complete with koozies, and now happy that our thirst has been quenched we eagerly hopped in line for some tacos and tater tots. I don't think I need to tell you how good that tasted or how quickly we downed everything. Feeling satisfied, we went for more beers before touring the many vendors that made up the expo. Among the vendors our favorites were EMS (of course), Garmin, Cotopaxi, Oboz, Big Agnes, Hyperlite, and many others. More swag was to be had from each and we filled our complementary Cotopaxi bags to the brim. After we had our fill we headed out and met up with Morgan's mother Denise and her boyfriend Brad at Moat Mountain in North Conway. If you've never been, I highly recommend this brewery. The beers are solid and the food is great. I had the best empanadas I've ever tasted. We replenished our 4,000 calorie deficit and retired to Brad's rustic cabin located near Mt. Jefferson and we didn't last long before we passed out.
Overall, this event was a resounding success, from the funds raised, to the perfect weather, to our mental and physical state on the trail. I don't think things could have gone any better. This will be an adventure to remember for a lifetime. No matter how many times over we hike Mt. Washington it will always maintain the feeling of it being the first. This mountain and the surrounding area are seemingly of another realm. If you haven't experienced it I strongly urge you to get out there whether you hike it, drive up, or take the cog railway. Just do it. You will find a new appreciation for the natural world.
If you would like to support MWOBS you can do so here:
References
“MWOBS History.” Mount Washington Observatory, https://www.mountwashington.org/about-us/history/default.aspx.
Comments